Salty sea air, limestone ramparts and sunlit harbours reflect La Rochelle’s glowing medieval past

Set on the Bay of Biscay, the historically powerful trading port of La Rochelle has guarded this France’s southwestern coast since 1199. Today, pastel-shuttered houses line cobbled streets filled with bustling markets. Culture lovers can treat themselves to art galleries, museums and the hugely popular Francofolies music festival in summer. While just across a bridge is Île de Ré. It’s a beautiful spot for cycling along flat paths that take you past charming villages, fragrant pine forests and salt marshes where the island’s famous oysters grow.

Things to do

WATER
The Atlantic is the beating heart of La Rochelle life. Set sail from the Vieux Port, past the imposing towers of Saint-Nicolas and La Chaîne – Medieval bastions that once controlled every boat entering the harbour. Charter a yacht for a day among the islands. Or explore the quiet coves and white sand beaches of nearby Île d’Aix and Île d’Oléron. Back on shore, get face to fin with thousands of marine animals at one of Europe’s finest private aquariums. While the waterfront around Vieux Port is made for evening strolls with plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars to dip into. 

HISTORY
Step into the Tour de la Lanterne lighthouse which used to be a navy prison. Three centuries of graffiti carved into the walls by prisoners show how much of La Rochelle’s past is written in stone. Explore grandiose arcades and magnificent private mansions built by wealthy sugar and coffee merchants during the 17th and 18th centuries. The Maritime Museum recounts stories of exploration and French Huguenot resistance. And nearby, the Musée des Beaux-Arts exhibits masterpieces by Gustave Doré and Gaston Chaissac. 

FOOD
Food in La Rochelle is as fresh as the Atlantic itself. Mornings begin at the covered Marché des Halles, where baskets overflow with oysters from Marennes-Oléron and charcuterie from the surrounding Charente countryside. Dine at Michelin-starred tables or in a harbour-side bistro serving platters of cod brandade and bowls of mouclade — Charron mussels in saffron cream. Local delights include Guignette, a vibrant homemade fruit syrup mixed with white wine, and even an oyster-flavoured ice cream. As the sun sets, raise a glass of Pineau des Charentes with a slice of Tourteau Fromagé, a cheesecake with a unique charcoal-burnt crust.

Top Tip from SLH

Late September is when the international in-water boat show, Grand Pavois, comes to town. Check out, and even test out, state-of-the-art yachts, catamarans and traditional sailing craft, accompanied by live music drifting across the harbour