Salerno

Elegance with edge in coastal Campania

Crumbly medieval buildings, crammed osteria that spill out on the streets and a buzzing port – Salerno is southwest Italy’s under-the-radar city. While Naples is all about the bustle and Amalfi steals the headlines, this corner of Campania has a carefree character all of its own. This is the place to passeggiare along the seafront, sweet and creamy sfogliatella in hand. To uncover the best-kept secrets of the technicolour Cilento shores. All before toasting the sunset with an appropriately golden glass of limoncello.

Things to do

LANDMARKS
The city may curve around the Tyrrhenian Sea, but many of Salerno’s best-loved sights are found on land. Among the finest is Castello di Arechi, a former fortress that towers 300 majestic metres above the Gulf of Salerno. The views from up top are a true sight to behold. Time your visit to coincide with one of the many food and wine events that happen here – a just reward for your climb.  

HISTORY
A Tetris-like skyline of mid-rise buildings, church towers and tumbledown passageways, Salerno’s back story is written into every street and stone. In the duomo, seen by many as a medieval masterpiece, you can trace a history that begins in Norman times, takes in the Crusades, enjoys a Baroque era and endures a more recent earthquake. A magnificent pastel marble interior sets a tranquil tone, with especially impressive mosaics that are typical of this side of Italy. To immerse in the region’s natural history, dip into Cilento National Park where sky-skimming mountains are criss-crossed with ancient mule tracks and the shores promise isolated beaches. Myths and legends still swirl through the waves here – listen for the Sirens’ call at Punta Licosa.

DAY TRIPS
The gateway to the Amalfi Coast, Cilento’s must-see places and spaces lie in every direction from Salerno. You could pitch up on the oh-so-chic spiaggia of Positano. Covet the refined hilltop residences on a villa-tour of Ravello. Breathe in the balmy lemon-scented air in Sorrento. Or turn Indiana Jones at the ancient ruins of Paestum and Pompeii. After all, Cilento’s entire landscape (and seascape) is UNESCO listed, and its temple-peppered seashores are as historically rich as they are breath-catchingly beautiful.   

Top Tip from SLH

Spring and summer in Salerno are sublime. But winter dazzles in a different way. Visit for Luci d’Artista to see the city transformed by a festival of lights