Proper coffee and people-watching in this charming city of contrasts

‘Not just a city but a lifestyle’ – Brno is where style, history and modernity happily collide. Sometimes described as Prague’s smart cousin, Moravia’s capital is an enchanting mix of intellectual but relaxed, lived-in and authentic. Cobbled streets and skyline-changing churches bring old world charm, while the vibrant coffee and craft beer culture – and some thoroughly modern architecture – lend this Czech city a youthful energy.

Things to do

HISTORY
No trip to Brno is complete without a visit to 13th century Spilberk Castle. Famous for its unsettling history, this once royal lodging was converted in the 18th century into one of the most feared prisons in Europe. While you can still wander the spooky underground casemates, the museum above offers a much warmer vibe. Cultural events, temporary exhibitions and open-air cinema showings keep things light. 

CULTURE
Brno is a city with real character, and more than a dash of local folklore. From the legend of the Brno Dragon to the Fasank carnival, the overarching feeling here is one of storied community. Add to this the iconic architecture of Cathedral of St Peter and Paul – and the eccentric features of local landmarks (St James’ Church’s Indecent Little Man, anyone?) – there’s a real thread of gentle humour woven through the culture. 

DAYTRIPS
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Villa Tugendhat is a modernist masterpiece. Designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and bespoke to the tiniest detail, it’s considered one of the 20th century’s most important architectural achievements. Guided tours are popular (and sell out fast!) so make sure you book in advance. Pair your visit with a trip to Brno’s old town –just a 15-minute walk from the villa – to really get a feel for these two distinctly different sides of the city.

Top Tip from SLH

Brno is full of hidden surprises. Be sure to look left, right, up and down in any place you visit to unlock city’s secrets. Starting with the 11am ‘marble drop’ in Freedom Square...