Dune-carved beaches, mythical forests, and a town dedicated to the good things in life – the Danish Riviera is ripe for exploration

A rainbow of boarded beach huts stand sentry on the silvery sands. The air is warm with the scent of cinnamon dough and coffee-sweet brunsviger that drifts from local bakeries. Trails twist through mossy ‘troll forests’ carpeted with pine needles with a Middle Earth-like magic to it. It’s little wonder why many Danish spend their summers in Tisvilde – and visitors fall for its wintry embrace, as bathing jetties lead to icy wild swimming holes. On the north coast of Zealand, but reachable from Copenhagen within the hour (or a little longer by train), it’s perfect for those wanting a city break that melts into a small-town beach escape.

Things to do

BEACHES
Corridors of dune grasses lead to a seashore where little ones can cartwheel and dip toes in the calm, clear shallows. Tisvilde has enough coastline for everyone to have space for sandcastles, sheltered by rocks where roses climb. Things get just a little more crowded – but happily so – in summer when the Music Festival sets up stage along the sands. To see more of the seascape, take to the cycle path that winds its way along here and into the ancient forest. 

NATURE
Visiting Hegn Forest is a non-negotiable when in Tisvilde. Aside from soaring trees, there are sacred springs, castle ruins and sand-buried villages to explore. On the cusp of the sea, locals began cultivating this woodland in the 1500s as a natural barricade to the sand drifts. Beyond the beach, step into Troldeskov and the ‘troll forest’ that forms part of Hegn. From woods to waters – in Arresø, cast eyes upwards to glimpse sea eagles gliding over the lake towards the fjords. You can sail or kayak here too – or watch pros race in the summer months. Meanwhile in Melby Overdrev, south of Tisvilde, walk Zealand’s famed heathland. 

FOOD
It’s not so much what you eat as how you eat in Tisvilde and North Zealand. It could be beach picnics on the strand at sunset, followed by soft scoop isvaffel. Pitching up at a farm shop for tables inspired by nature’s larder. Or a bistro or boutique hotel restaurant near to the beach. Joining in with the Danish philosophy of hygge is something of a rite of passage too. Unwind (in every sense) with kanelsnegle, swirled with cardamom and cinnamon.

Top Tip from SLH

For the best kind of ‘leg day’, hike the Tibirke Hills to reach Udsigten – a high point for panoramic photographs of a landscape that knits together meadows and woodland