Not perfectly polished, but undeniably a diamond, Palermo is the kind of city that isn’t just a tick on a checklist. You’ll want to spend time discovering its many facets – from its bounteous, rowdy markets to colour-splashed murals, shimmering mosaics and red domed roofs. There’s one thing for sure about this life-affirming city – it shines.
HISTORY
Byzantine, Baroque, Norman, Islamic and more – Palermo’s many influences are layered among its streets like a millefoglie. It’s a heady mix that turns even a simple stroll into the most fun kind of history lesson. Palermo Cathedral showcases these layers, both inside and out. Definitely go inside Cappella Palatina for its gleaming gold mosaics and intricate craftsmanship. La Martorana and San Cataldo churches are UNESCO-listed neighbours. While San Giovanni degli Eremiti’s quiet cloisters and shaded garden are a perfect pause from sightseeing.
CULTURE
Book ahead of your visit for a performance at Teatro Massimo – the third-largest opera house in Europe. Or experience another type of Sicilian storytelling at the Opera dei Pupi, where marionette puppets come to life in a UNESCO-recognised tradition. Prefer art to arias? Join a graffiti walk to discover works from home-grown talent adorning walls and brightening dark corners. On a similarly contemporary note, the new and acclaimed Museum of the Present honours the ongoing history of anti-mafia resistance, and the triumph of strength over fear.
FOOD
TThis is Italy – so you’ll never go hungry. But Palermo has a food scene all of its own. The food markets are where it’s at; go to Ballarò in the morning for irresistible piles of fruits and vegetables. Il Capo for a lunchtime bite near the Teatro Massimo. And Vucciria as dusk falls for aperitivo and people-watching. Street-food is a Sicilian speciality. Try hot, salty panelle (chickpea fritters), pizza-like sfincione oozing with olive oil, sweet cannoli filled to order and cups of icy granita.
It’s not for everyone, but a pani ca’ meusa – or spleen sandwich – is a local favourite. You might just find yourself converted
